KITCHY MYSTERY

I don't believe in Santa Claus anymore, but after last Thursday I'm not so sure. My mom has a habit of taking anything I order from amazon.com (usually cookbooks) within 3 months of my birthday or Christmas and wrapping them. I'll walk around, scratching my head, double checking the tracking number, and then finally ask her, "Have you seen anything from amazon for me?"

"Noooooo" she says, winking coyly. I really should just start shipping things to my place. Anyway, midway through ripping the Christmas wrapping from around what appeared to be a cookbook, my mom joked that another of my amazon orders had become a casualty of her holiday policy. Perplexed, I responded that no, I had not purchased a book on the sous vide method, by the god-chef Thomas Keller. While I happily take on any cooking challenge (because really, what's the worst that can happen?), the sous vide method has always felt out of my grasp. It's very "chef-y." People who win Top Chef do it.  Sous vide, French for "under vacuum," is a method of cooking that uses low cooking temperatures over an extended period of time (sometimes over 24 hours) to maintain the integrity of the food and emphasize its flavors. Unlike cooking in a slow cooker, sous vide cooking uses airtight plastic bags placed in hot water well below boiling point. It requires a good deal of special equipment (thermometers, water baths, vacuums, etc). The food cooked under sous vide is supposed to be phenomenal, with rich flavors, delicate texture, and completely even cooking.

As I no longer believe in Santa, the only realistic conclusion is that Thomas Keller, while reading my blog, has developed a secret crush on me. He sent me the book as a secret admirer would send a love letter. Thank you Thomas, but I already have a boyfriend!

I guess I'll have to start researching sous vide, so expect a recipe or two in the coming months. Happy New Year, and I'll keep you posted if Thomas Keller sends me any more tokens of his affection.

DARK CHOCOLATE MARSHMALLOWS WITH ORANGE ZEST

Ok, I realize I already posted an exotic marshmallow recipe, but for some reason, but I could not get this combination out of my head.  It's a classic, (like those chocolate oranges I used to get in my Christmas stocking) and I wanted to push the limits of what you could whip into fluffy marshmallows.  The darker, more bitter the chocolate, the better.  There is so much sugar and corn syrup in the marshmallows (to provide structure) that dark dark chocolate adds a depth and richness to the recipe that milk chocolate would turn into a saccharine head-ache.  So here is proof that you can let your creativity fly, and try whatever combinations that get you salivating.  Lavender with dark chocolate chunks?  Absolutely.  Blackberry with cracked pepper? Yes.  Sriracha?  Maybe.  Anyway, the point is have fun.  Enjoy!   

Ingredients:
About 1/2 cup confectioners' sugar, plus 4 tablespoons cocoa powder
3 ½ envelopes (2 tablespoons plus 2 1/2 teaspoons) unflavored gelatin
2-3 ounces bitter-sweet chocolate (70% cocoa and up)
1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder
5 tablespoons hot water
2 cups granulated sugar
½ cup light corn syrup
½ cup hot water (about 115 degrees)
¼ teaspoon salt
2 large egg whites
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon orange zest

Directions:
Oil bottom and sides of a 13 by 9 inch rectangular metal baking pan and heavily dust the bottom and sides with some confectioners' sugar and cocoa mixture.

Melt the chocolate in a double boiler, then add the cocoa powder and hot water.  Whisk together until on the watery side (you don't want it to be too thick).  It should make a 1/2 cup, if it doesn't, add hot water until it does.  In the bowl of a standing electric mixer, pour in the ½ cup of chocolate mixture and sprinkle with the gelatin. Let it stand for about 10 minutes.

In a 3-quart heavy saucepan cook granulated sugar, corn syrup, hot water, and salt over low heat, stirring with a wooden spoon, until sugar is dissolved. Increase heat to moderate and boil mixture, without stirring, until a candy or digital thermometer registers 240 degrees, about 12 minutes. A word to the wise, this happens very very quickly. While I turned around to tidy up, the entire batch jumped to 275 and burned, so once the thermometer reads 200, keep a close watch, and take it off the heat when it reaches 230. The thermometer should still creep up to 240 after that. Remove the pan from heat and pour sugar mixture over gelatin mixture, stirring until gelatin is dissolved.

With the standing mixer beat the mixture on high speed until light brown, thick and nearly tripled in volume, about 6 minutes if using standing mixer. In a large bowl separately beat the egg whites until they just hold stiff peaks. Beat whites, vanilla extract, and orange zest into sugar mixture until it is just combined (about 2 minutes). Pour the mixture into baking pan and sift ¼ cup confectioners' sugar and cocoa mixture evenly over top. Let the marshmallow set uncovered, until firm, at least three hours, and up to 1 day.

Run a thin knife around edges of pan and invert pan onto large cutting board. Lifting up 1 corner of inverted pan, with fingers loosen marshmallow and let drop onto cutting board. With a large knife trim edges of marshmallow and cut marshmallows into roughly 1-inch cubes. Sift remaining confectioners' sugar and cocoa mixture into a large bowl and add marshmallows in batches, tossing to evenly coat. Marshmallow keep in an airtight container at cool room temperature 1 week.  Enjoy!

WHITE TRUFFLE INFUSED SWEET PEA SOUP

As mentioned in the sweet pea puree hors d'oeuvres, this is my sister's favorite dish that I make. She subtly fist pumps the air, excited that her favorite comfort food is on the menu that night. This soup has a sophisticated flavor profile and is quite delicate, playing off the sweetness of the peas with the pungency of the white truffle and the piquant flavor of white pepper (which has a "purer" pepper taste than black pepper, which can be more nutty or floral). The straining is to get a velvet smooth texture, and takes some time and effort. But because the soup requires a short cooking time (no more than 20 minutes, basically to heat it through), it's worth the effort in the long run, and takes no more time than any other soup one makes from scratch, which could take several hours of simmering to have the flavors meld. Enjoy!

Ingredients:

For 6

6, 12 oz bags frozen organic sweet peas (make sure they are sweet peas, rather than regular peas)
Several drops white truffle oil
White pepper
1 cup salt
1 cup sugar
6-7 cups low-sodium organic chicken broth
1/2 cup heavy cream
Crème fraiche
4 strips thinly sliced pancetta (or bacon), cut into small pieces

Directions:

Fill a pot up with water, and add the salt and sugar. Bring the water to a boil and cook the peas for 3 minutes. Drain the peas and run cold water over them to stop the cooking process. This maintains their beautiful color and texture. Take the peas and put it into the food processor (this may take more than one round, given the amount) and blitz until the peas are fully pureed. Push the pea puree through a wire strainer (make sure the holes aren't too small, otherwise this will be a painfully long process) and using a spatula, scrape the strained puree into a pot. Take the left-over puree, place in the food processor with a few tablespoons of hot water and blitz again. Push this through the strainer as well. The goal is to get as much puree as possible. Once you get through the 6 bags, you should have about 6 cups of velvety smooth puree. Put the pot with pea puree over medium heat, and add the chicken broth. Depending on the amount of puree you have, you may need less or more broth, so add a few cups at a time, to make sure you maintain a thick, soupy consistency. Stir to combine. Taste the mixture (to gage the saltiness or sweetness) and add sugar or salt depending on taste. Add five drops of white truffle oil and a small amount of finely ground white pepper. Taste and adjust accordingly; I like lots of pepper in mine. When you are almost ready to serve (like, 5 minutes away), add the heavy cream and stir.

Meanwhile, cook the pancetta until crispy. To serve the soup, ladle out the soup and drizzle a little creme fraiche over it with a spoon. Add several pieces of pancetta on top. Serve while hot (it's good chilled too) and enjoy!

NEW YEAR'S EVE HORS D'OEUVRES

Should auld acquaintance be forgot and never brought to mind?
Should auld acquaintance be forgot and days o' lang syne ? Good question, and as I’m not fluent in 18th century Scottish, I’ll assume the poet’s reminiscing about those forgotten friends and moments, that slip through our memories like the sand through our fingers. Or maybe he just was looking for an excuse to make a toast and kiss strangers on New Year’s Eve. Both noble endeavors, though one seems to have stuck more than the other over the years. And while you’re icing your champagne and making your party mix for that fete you’ve decided to host this year, let the memories of stress and chaos from hosting previous parties become auld lang syne by making the vittles a snap. Below I’ve included four of my favorite bar snacks, tapas, and hors d’oeuvres, sure to please the crowd and make life easy for the running-like-a-chicken-cliché host or hostess. So pop the bubbly, turn on your Rodrigo y Gabriela or Perez Prado mix, and toast to a healthy, happy, and prosperous new year. I know I will. Salute!


WHITE TRUFFLE SMASHED PEAS





This idea is an offshoot of my sister’s favorite soup: sweet pea soup with white truffle oil, white pepper, and a bit of crumbled pancetta (or bacon) on top. The smashed peas however, are even easier to make than the soup, as it does not require being pushed through a sieve for a velvety texture. If the peas are too smooth, it takes on a baby food quality that no one above the age of 3 would enjoy. It’s extremely simple, and is entirely focused on emphasizing the sweetness of the peas. As Amanda would say: it’s legit.

Ingredients:

For 10-15 (Depending on the size of grilled bread slices)

3 bags frozen organic sweet peas (make sure they are sweet peas, rather than regular peas)
Several drops white truffle oil
White pepper
½ cup salt
½ cup sugar
¾ cup fresh ricotta
Crème fraiche
4 strips thinly sliced pancetta (or bacon), cut into small pieces
1 baguette
¼ cup olive oil

Directions:

Fill a pot of water up halfway with water, and add the salt and sugar. Bring the water to a boil and cook the peas for 3 minutes. Drain the peas and run cold water over them to stop the cooking process. This maintains their beautiful color and texture. Take the peas and put it into the food processor (this make take more than one round) and blitz until the skins are broken, yet the peas are still distinguishable (i.e. Not baby food). In a bowl, use a spatula to incorporate the pea puree and the ricotta.  Add several drops of white truffle oil, and a small amount of finely ground white pepper. Taste and adjust accordingly. 

Slice the bread in small rounds for hors d’oeuvres, or diagonal slices for bruschetta-style tapas. Drizzle the bread heavily in olive oil and grill, or sauté in a hot, ungreased pan. Toss the pancetta in a pan and cook until pink and crunchy. Take the puree and smooth a small round on the grilled bread, drizzle on a small bit of crème fraiche, and top with a few pieces of pancetta. Simple and delicious, my favorite combination. Enjoy!


BURRATA, PROSCUITTO, AND SUN DRIED TOMATOES WITH ARUGULA-BASIL OIL



This is also one of the easiest snacks to whip up, mainly because it relies wholly on good ingredients, and not at all on skill. For all of my Italian meat and cheese needs I head to the stupendous Bay Cities Italian Deli in Santa Monica. There is always a line at lunchtime, but if you have not had it, you MUST TRY their sandwich, “The Godmother.” It’s an explosion of Genoa salami, mortadella, coppacola, ham, prosciutto, provolone cheese, mayo, mustard (yellow, honey or dijon), onions, pickles, tomatoes, lettuce, Italian dressing & mild or hot pepper salad, all served on a freshly baked warm Italian roll. It is an institution, which is saying a lot for a sandwich. But I digress. The core to any meal, large or small, relying on simplicity, is the quality of ingredients you build upon. So pick out some delicious prosciuttio (ask for a taste, you might end up preferring speck or Serrano ham) and get some fresh burrata (which is ricotta and mascarpone wrapped in a mozzarella curd), because that’s basically all the work you have to do.

Ingredients:

For 12

2 large balls of burrata
12 thin slices of prosciutto
2 cups of high quality sun dried tomatoes, packed in olive oil
1 cup arugula
¼ fresh sweet basil
½ cup olive oil (plus more for the bread and for drizzling)
1 baguette
Black Pepper
Salt

or, to make the sun dried tomatoes yourself:
20 Roma tomatoes
½ cup olive oil
Salt
Black Pepper
1 tablespoon fresh thyme, finely chopped

Directions:

In a blender, puree the arugula, basil, and oil until consistent and fully blended. Roll each ball of burrata in olive oil, and cut into six slices per ball. Cut the baguette into medium sized slices, drizzle heavily with olive oil and grill or sauté in a hot pan. Assemble the sun dried tomatoes, the prosciutto, the burrata on the bread. Grind a little pepper on top, plus a pinch of salt, and drizzle the arugula-basil oil all over.

If you choose to roast your own tomatoes, turn the oven on to 325 F. Slices the tomatoes lengthwise and situate on a pan, cut side facing up. Drizzle heavily with olive oil, and sprinkle the salt, thyme, and pepper on top. Pop the tomatoes in the oven and bake for about 3-4 hours, or until the juices have run out, and the tomatoes are crispy on the edges, but still soft and bendable (you don’t want a leathery mess). Check on the tomatoes every 45 minutes or so, as depending on the oven (mine is weak) it may take less time. When the tomatoes are done, put them in a container and cover in olive oil, where they will stay good for a week. Enjoy!


BRESAOLA WITH GOAT CHEESE


Air dried and salted beef is not the first thing I’d think to pair with goat cheese, but this Northern Italian specialty, derived from brasare, meaning to braise, has a sweet and musty flavor, that supports rather than competes with the goat cheese’s own sweetness and pungency. Plus, it’s the perfect shape to roll up into easy to grab snacks. With a drizzle of aged balsamic and a few sprigs of micro arugula, this meat and cheese course is a real treat.

Ingredients:

For 10

3 oz of fresh chevre (logs tend to be easiest to work with)
10 thin slices of bresaola
2 tablespoons aged balsamic vinegar
½ cup micro arugula (regular is fine too)
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Fresh ground pepper
Salt

Directions:

Pour the olive oil into a little plate to roll the segments of cheese in. Cut the log into 10 slices, and using your fingers mold the slices into flattened logs, big enough to fit across the slice of bresaola. Bresaola is rectangular, so the cheese log will be going across the narrower, rather than wider side. Dip the logs in olive oil and place one in the center of each slice of bresaola. Crack fresh black pepper over it, and roll the bresaola around the cheese, tucking under the loose side. Drizzle with balsamic and garnish with arugula. Enjoy!

PIG CANDY

Really, what could possibly be better than candy made of pig? Bacon to be precise. Smokey, salty, spicy, sweet: yes please! And the best part is that it is ridiculously easy to make. In 30 minutes you’ll have a bowl of kitsch bar snacks that are just as delicious with a rich red wine as with a spicy ale or sweet and smokey stout. The possibilities are endless and so is my appetite for these little pieces of heaven. In the words of the ad man, bet you can’t have just one.

Ingredients:

For 4

8 strips thin cut bacon (hickory smoked bacon was a wonderful maple flavor already within it)
1 cup golden brown sugar
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper

Directions:

Turn the oven on to 350 F. Meanwhile, blend the sugar and pepper together in a bowl. Taste it. If it’s too spicy, add more sugar, not spicy enough, add more cayenne. However, the spice does become a little more pronounced after being cooked, so be aware of that. Lay the bacon on a cooling rack placed over a baking pan. Cover each slice of bacon with the brown sugar mixture. It should be an even layer, thick enough so that you cannot see the bacon through it (about 1/8 or ¼ of an inch). Place the bacon in the oven for 6-8 minutes, or until the sugar is completely browned, and the bacon has started to curl at the edges. Remove the bacon from the oven and flip. Cover the bacon with the rest of the brown sugar mixture, and pop back in the oven for another 4-6 minutes, or until the bacon appears fully cooked, but not burnt.

Let the bacon cool on the rack for at least 15 minutes to let the sugar harden a bit before you start cutting the pieces. I find it’s easiest to use a pair of kitchen scissors and cut the pieces over the serving bowl. Serve it up with the libation of your choice and enjoy!

KITCHY TV

TINA'S TOFFEE

On today's episode of Kitchy TV, my Aunt Tina shows me how to make her delectable toffee. For me, it is the epitome of the Christmas Season (we start badgering her to cook it the day after Thanksgiving), and something I look forward to nibbling on every year. Nothing is more depressing than reaching for my family's toffee tin and finding it empty, like a dead Christmas tree in the gutter. So please cook up this toffee until your kitchen is heavy with the scent of butter, sugar, and the holiday spirit. Enjoy, and have a merry merry Christmas!

TINA'S TOFFEE from Claire Thomas on Vimeo.

Ingredients:

1 pound unsalted butter (plus extra for greasing the pans)

2 cups white sugar

½ teaspoon salt

1/4 cup water

1 ½ teaspoon vanilla

2 cups dark chocolate, chopped

2 cups milk chocolate, chopped

2 cups finely chopped toasted almonds

Directions:

Melt the butter, sugar, water and salt over a low flame, stirring with a wooden spoon. When the mixture starts to boil, turn the heat up to medium. Meanwhile, grease two cooking pans with butter. After 15-20 minutes, the mixture has reached 305 F. Turn off the heat and add the vanilla, stirring to incorporate. Be careful not to burn yourself or the mixture, but if you do, and I have, run your hand under room temperature water (never cold or hot water) to subside the pain. Immediately take the hot toffee and pour into two greased cooking pans and smooth until evenly coated and about 1/8 or 1/4 inch thick. Put the pans into the fridge to let the toffee cool (this will take several hours, or leave the toffee in over night, uncovered).

Once the toffee has cooled, remove it from the refrigerator and carefully loosen the pieces (you can do this by hand or with a knife). If it cracks, it's not a big deal.

Melt the two types of chocolate over a double boiler, stirring to combine. Once the chocolate has melted, use a spatula to coat one side of the toffee, and then immediately sprinkle heavily with the chopped toasted almonds. This must be done immediately because the cold toffee can cause the chocolate to harden before the almonds can stick. Put the toffee back in the fridge to cool the chocolate. Once it has hardened (it takes about an hour), flip and coat the other side with the chocolate and almonds. You will probably have chocolate and almonds left over, which you can use for more toffee. Let the toffee cool in the fridge until hardened again. When it's ready, take the toffee out, and using your hands crack it into irregular pieces. Bag them or stick them in a tin for your own enjoyment. Merry Christmas!

HOT COCOA WITH RASPBERRY ROSE MARSHMALLOWS

Nothing is more evocative of cold weather than a steaming cup in your hand. It could be tea, or coffee, or a hot toddy, but the one that speaks loudest to sitting by a fire and watching movies while the poor saps outside stuck in bad weather field god awful traffic is hot cocoa. And while I have been known to indulge in a cup of powdered cocoa with freeze dried marshmallows, there is nothing like the real thing. So pour yourself a cup of steaming hot schadenfreude and make a toast to those stuck outside, it’s hot cocoa time!

HOT COCOA

In the balance of quantity over quality, quality always wins for me. I’d rather have a little cup of rich chocolate than a gallon of watered down crap. So for my recipe for hot cocoa, it is more reminiscent of European style hot chocolate, rich and a little thick, meant to be sipped rather than gulped. There is a little spice that tickles your throat, which brings the whole thing together for me.

For 4 small cups

2 ounces semisweet chocolate
2 tablespoons sugar
½ cup of heavy cream
3 cups milk
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
2 pinches of nutmeg
2 pinches of cayenne pepper

Measure out the milk and have it sit out as you prepare the rest of the recipe. This is to bring the temperature down slightly. Melt the chocolate over a double boiler. Once mostly melted, add the sugar and a bit of the cream, using a whisk blend them together. Add a bit more cream, and blend again. Continue the process until you have finished off the cream. Congratulations! You have just made a ganache. Next, add the cinnamon, nutmeg, and cayenne pepper. My friend Christie and I realized that this was the more efficient way to add the spices, otherwise you’ll just have them floating around like flotsam and jetsam on top. Add the milk, about a quarter to a third cup at a time, whisking to blend. If you add more than that at a time, the cold milk will shock the ganache. When you have added all of the milk, finish it with the vanilla, whisking to combine. Pour into smaller cups (ones for espresso work well), pop a marshmallow on top and enjoy!


RASPBERRY ROSE MARSHMALLOWS

Nothing pairs better with hot cocoa than a bobbing marshmallow slowly melting on top. You poke at it with your spoon, wondering what’s the best moment to devour it. And what pairs beautifully with dark chocolate? Orange: sure; vanilla: yes; raspberry: definitely. Raspberries and their tart berry flavor showcase the depth of a good dark chocolate. So when I was deciding on how to approach the marshmallow, which I have a very spotty relationship with (my friend Christie and I were covered in it after trying to make home-made Ding Dongs), raspberry seemed like the best choice to be dunked in hot chocolate. The rose flavor is inspired by one of my favorite truffles at Compartes, owned and helmed by my friend Jonathan Grahm. The rose flavor adds a subtle floral note and brings out the natural flavor of whatever you pair it with, much like vanilla.

About 1 cup confectioners' sugar
3 ½ envelopes (2 tablespoons plus 2 1/2 teaspoons) unflavored gelatin
8 ounces fresh raspberries (to make 4 oz of juice)
2 cups granulated sugar
½ cup light corn syrup
½ cup hot water (about 115 degrees)
¼ teaspoon salt
2 large egg whites
1 teaspoon rose water (the Iranian kind has a delicious flavor)

Oil bottom and sides of a 13 by 9 inch rectangular metal baking pan and heavily dust the bottom and sides with some confectioners' sugar.

Puree the raspberries in a blender, and push through a sieve to gather ½ a cup of raspberry juice. In the bowl of a standing electric mixer, pour in the ½ cup of juice and sprinkle with the gelatin. Let it stand for about 10 minutes.

In a 3-quart heavy saucepan cook granulated sugar, corn syrup, hot water, and salt over low heat, stirring with a wooden spoon, until sugar is dissolved. Increase heat to moderate and boil mixture, without stirring, until a candy or digital thermometer registers 240 degrees, about 12 minutes. A word to the wise, this happens very very quickly. While I turned around to tidy up, the entire batch jumped to 275 and burned, so once the thermometer reads 200, keep a close watch, and take it off the heat when it reaches 230. The thermometer should still creep up to 240 after that. Remove the pan from heat and pour sugar mixture over gelatin mixture, stirring until gelatin is dissolved.

With the standing mixer beat the mixture on high speed until light pink, thick and nearly tripled in volume, about 6 minutes if using standing mixer. In a large bowl separately beat the egg whites until they just hold stiff peaks. Beat whites and rose water into sugar mixture until it is just combined (about 2 minutes). Pour the mixture into baking pan and sift ¼ cup confectioners' sugar evenly over top. Let the marshmallow set uncovered, until firm, at least three hours, and up to 1 day.

Run a thin knife around edges of pan and invert pan onto large cutting board. Lifting up 1 corner of inverted pan, with fingers loosen marshmallow and let drop onto cutting board. With a large knife trim edges of marshmallow and cut marshmallows into roughly 1-inch cubes. Sift remaining confectioners' sugar into a large bowl and add marshmallows in batches, tossing to evenly coat. Marshmallow keep in an airtight container at cool room temperature 1 week. They make lovely gifts, and you can always cover them in a dark chocolate ganache to eat alone. Enjoy!

ROASTED TOMATO PISTO WITH FRESH CHEVRE

Sometimes I like to forgo dinner and just snack on some tapas with a glass of wine. This time around I went with a tomato pisto, which is a Spanish blend of roasted vegetables, a recipe originating from La Mancha, and very similar to ratatouille. I roasted it with goat cheese and lots of pepper, spreading it on toasted baguette. I think I went through an entire loaf myself. Toasted bread, bright and acidic tomatoes, plus creamy chevre are excellent partners with a California Zinfandel, especially the beautifully balanced 2006 Ridge Vineyards “Three Valleys” Sonoma Zinfandel. At 80% Zinfandel, 10% Petite Syrah, 5% Carignan, and 5% Grenache, the wine is well balanced, with firm tannins and bright fruit and acidity. It has a beautiful deep magenta hue, and a black cherry nose. The flavors pair deliciously with the roasted tomato pisto, which gets a good amount of spice from the red onion and black pepper. So get your stemware out and enjoy!

Ingredients:
4 small heirloom tomatoes (or plum tomatoes)
1 small Japanese eggplants
2 red bell peppers
1 red onion, not peeled
5 cloves of garlic, peeled
3 tablespoons tomato paste
2 teaspoons freshly chopped thyme
3 tablespoons julieanned basil
¼ cup olive oil
3 oz Fresh Chevre
1 baguette
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Directions:
Set oven to 400 F. Cut all of the vegetables in half, place on a baking pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and drizzle heavily in olive oil. Place the garlic cloves on a sheet of tin foil, and drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Wrap the tin foil into a bundle around the garlic, and toss onto the pan. Roast the vegetables for about 30 minutes, or until very soft (the onion may take as long as an 45 minutes). Allow to cool for 10 minutes, then remove the skin from the tomatoes and peel the onion. Scoop out the flesh from the eggplant. Turn the oven up to 450 F. Place the vegetables into a food processor, add the thyme, tomato paste, a pinch of salt, and good amount of pepper. Pulse several times, to roughly chop and combine the mixture. Taste and add more salt and pepper. Drizzle in remaining olive oil and pulse one or two times more (it should have a rough texture, not pureed like baby food).

In a large ramekin or small deep dish, place a 3 oz mound of fresh chevre. I find it’s easiest to cut a log in half, and stick it into the ramekin. Using a slotted spoon, fill up the ramekin with the pisto mixture. Drizzle with olive oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place the ramekin on the highest rung in the oven, and roast for 5-10 minutes (when the top is bubbling, and the cheese is slightly gooey, it’s ready).

While the pisto is roasting, slice and toast or grill the baguette. When it’s done, place the pisto on a large plate, and surround with the toasted bread. Use a spreader to smear some pisto and cheese on to the bread. Enjoy!

THAI NON SEQUITUR

I go weak for Thai food, gorging on it at least once or twice a week. The waiter at my favorite place, Thai Boom in Culver City, jokingly tells me, “See you tomorrow!” every time I come in. I laugh along, but secretly am a little crushed by how truly predictable my meals have become. I call in to order, and halfway through saying “Pad See Yew with chicken” the waiter interrupts me and adds, “pineapple fried rice too?” and chortles uproariously at recognizing my voice and having my order down pat. My boyfriend will call to order, and he’ll interrupt asking, “Is this for Claire? I’ll add a Thai Iced tea for her.” It’s not from laziness that I always pick up Thai food—ok, partial laziness—who wouldn’t want to create flavors that are the perfect blend of savory and sweet and utterly complex despite the simplicity of the dish (it is just rice and noodles, after all); and yet, any time I approach cooking actual Thai food in my own kitchen, a maelstrom of failure follows. The main issue is that I'm not a Thai grandmother who has a catalog of ingredients at her finger tips and a kitchen that churns out this type of cooking daily. Anytime I want to venture into this exotic culinary arena, I have to go to a market in Thai town, buy a list of supplies, and then be dismayed when I realize my version of pad see yew is a pathetic impostor next to the $7.99 version I could buy from my favorite Thai restaurant. Until now, that is.... These two recipes have a limited grocery list, are quick and easy to make, and is deliciously Thai. All impossibilities in my mind until an arduous process of trial and error has revealed some of the simpler cores of Thai cooking. So, I suppose these two posts are dedicated to the attentive waiter, always ready with my order and extra fortune cookies.

COCONUT RICE WITH SHRIMP, CILANTRO PESTO, AND KAFFIR LIME LEAVES (Kao Niow Nah Goong)




While this dish is made up of three components, it is quite simple, and very easy to prepare. The combination of succulent shrimp, sweet coconut rice, and aromatic kaffir lime and cilantro encapsulate all I love about Thai cuisine: the balance of salty, sweet, and spicy. Also, each of the components can be used and enjoyed separately if you have any left over: use the rice with some fresh mango or fried bananas for dessert, the cilantro pesto would taste lovely rubbed on a chicken breast, and the shrimp…well, there won’t be any of those left, I promise.

A quick word about Kaffir lime leaves: The Kaffir Lime leaf is a popular flavoring ingredient in Thai cooking with a very distinct flavor; a bit more peppery and aromatic than regular limes, and the leaves are less waxy. Interestingly, the leaves grow out of one another, rather then on separate branches. The fruit themselves are smaller than regular limes with a bumpy exterior and practically no juice inside, though the zest is even more aromatic that the leaves. In my frenzy for Thai cuisine I bought a kaffir lime tree and now have an endless supply of leaves on my balcony (it’s just a small dwarfish tree). If you enjoy Thai food as much as I, consider buying one. It only cost $30 and the scent it generates on warm evenings is fantastic.

Coconut Sticky Rice (Kao Niow Mun)

Ingredients:

3 cups, hot cooked sticky rice (about 1 ½ cups uncooked rice)
2 cups coconut milk
1 cup sugar
2 teaspoons salt

To prepare the rice, take 1 ½ cups of the uncooked rice (I use Calrose, which is a medium grain rice that absorbs flavor well, and produces soft sticky clumps, though most white rice should work fine) and cover with cool water. Stir the rice with your hand until the water is milky, and drain the water out. Repeat this four or five times. Cover the rice with cool water again, and let it sit for 20 minutes. This washes out the starch, which hinders the “stickiness” factor. Cook the rice as dictated by the manufacturer.

While the rice is cooking, combine the coconut milk, sugar, and salt in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil, stir well to deflate the roiling foam, and remove from heat.

When rice is ready—soft, shiny, and forming into sticky clumps—transfer into a large bowl, and pour the hot coconut mixture over it. Stir well to combine, cover, and set aside for 30 minutes for the rice to absorb the mixture. Do not refrigerate the rice (this creates mealy rice).

Cilantro Pesto (Rahk Pahk Chee-Gratiem-Prik Thai)

1 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped cilantro
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped garlic

Using a food processor or mortar and pestle blend the ingredients together into a paste.

Coconut Rice with Shrimp, Coconut, and Kaffir Lime Leaves (Kao Niow Nah Goong)

3 cups coconut sticky rice
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 tablespoons cilantro pesto
½ pound shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 cup freshly grated coconut (not the bagged kind)
up to ¼ cup sugar (It's a taste thing, so start with 2 tablespoons, and keep adding sugar to taste)
2 teaspoons salt
6 kaffir lime leaves, cut coarsely lengthwise, or if you cannot get kaffir lime leaves, use a bunch of fresh cilantro and some lemon grass.

Prepare the coconut rice first, and set aside to cool.

Heat the oil in a small pan over low heat. Add the pesto and stir-fry it as it sizzles gently, for about a minute (keep the heat low so as not to burn the garlic). Add the shrimp, and stir-fry for about 1 minute (seriously, you don’t want overcooked shrimp), until pink and opaque. Stir in the coconut and kaffir lime leaves. For the coconut, I buy fresh coconut rind (available at whole foods) and grate it by hand. The bagged kind of coconut used in baking is quite sugary, so if you do not have fresh coconut available to you, try desiccated coconut from the dried fruit section (this should not have any sweetener). Add sugar and salt and stir to dissolve, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Scoop a large mound of the coconut rice onto a plate, and place several shrimp and some of the pesto on top. Garnish with some fresh cilantro, and enjoy!


THAI ICED TEA PANNA COTTA



Thai iced tea, for anyone who has had it, is recognizable by its milky orange hue.  And just like the rest of Thai cuisine, it is all about balance; the balance of the deep, smoky Thai tea and saccharine condensed milk. The combination is intense, but delicious. I was trying to think of a dessert to have after the shrimp dish, rather than just eating more of the rice, and that lovely refresher came to mind. I asked the waiter at Thai Boom about making it, and he waived me off explaining it was too complicated (apparently massive quantities are made at a time, so it’s not useful for individual purposes). I was a little disappointed, but undaunted. I’m not sure where the panna cotta idea came from, but when it popped into my head it made perfect sense: sweet creamy panna cotta, with a punch of smoky tea. The results were lovely, and extraordinarily similar to the drink. Enjoy it with some fresh fruit, or just a dusting of toasted coconut.

½ packet (1 teaspoon) unflavored gelatin powder
1 ½ tablespoons cold water
1 ½ cups heavy cream
1 cup plain Greek yogurt (or whole milk yogurt)
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract or paste
1/3 cup sugar
2 ½ tablespoons Thai Red Tea (or Thai Dust)
¼ cup unsweetened baking coconut

In a small bowl, sprinkle the gelatin on 1 ½ tablespoons of cold water. Stir and set aside to allow the gelatin to dissolve.

Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk together ¾ cup of the cream, the yogurt, and vanilla extract. Heat the remaining ¾ cup of cream, the 1/3 cup of sugar, and the Thai tea in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Stir occasionally to mix the tea, and remove from the heat once the tea is a light orange hue (about 5 minutes). Strain the hot mixture into the softened gelatin and stir to dissolve. Pour the hot cream-gelatin mixture into the cold cream-yogurt mixture and stir to combine. Pour into 4-6 small ramekins and refrigerate uncovered until cold. The panna cotta is quite rich, so a small amount should suit most appetites. Cover the panna cottas with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

The next day, take the panna cottas out of the refrigerator and turn the oven to 425 F. Spread the coconut onto a baking sheet, and bake for a few minutes. Keep an eye on the coconut, as it has a habit of burning quickly. Set the coconut aside, and get out plates for the panna cottas. Take a small knife and drag it around the edges of each panna cotta to loosen them up. Then, take a plate, put it on top of the panna cotta, and flip, so the panna cotta slides out of the ramekin and lands on the plate. Garnish with the toasted coconut and serve. Enjoy!

SOPHISTICATED SMORE

I recently found myself the recipient of a box of graham crackers, a bag of marshmallows, and 15 pounds of high quality chocolate.  After working on a commercial shoot for an ice cream company, we were given as many leftovers as possible: buckets of frosting, mountains of chocolate, fudge, caramel, those ice cream sandwich cookies. I obviously have a very linear thought process, because the first I thought of were camp fire smores.  I know they're associated with summer, but for some reason they seem more suited for winter to me.  Maybe it's the roasted/gooey factor.    And though there is something wonderfully nostalgic about turning on the stove, and toasting up a few in your kitchen in the dead of night, my burgeoning adulthood cried out to me: this is not the behavior of a young lady! Make something that can be eaten with friends, not scarfed down secretly with tell-tale crumbs on marshmallow residue left on my fingers.  So I give you an adult smore: a rich dark chocolate cheesecake with a graham cracker crust, and toasted marshmallow frosting. The cake itself is on the bitter side, gaining acidity from the sour cream and American cream cheese, which lends itself to the sweet frosting and brings out the dark chocolate flavor beautifully.  If you want to make this without the frosting, try a less bitter chocolate (65-75% cocoa) and doing half American cream cheese, half mascarpone. 

Ingredients:

Crust:
1 ½ cups graham cracker crumbs
½ stick butter
½ tablespoon cocoa

Cheesecake:
8 ounces bittersweet chocolate (70% cocoa or more)
2 ½ cups cream cheese 

¾ cup superfine sugar 

1 tablespoon custard powder 

3 large eggs 

3 large egg yolks 

2/3 cup sour cream 

1 teaspoon Vanilla extract

½ teaspoon cocoa, dissolved in 1 tablespoon hot water
9-inch spring form pan

Marshmallow Frosting:
4 egg whites
3 cups sugar
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons cold water
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
1½ teaspoon corn syrup
1 teaspoon vanilla

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

To make the crust, pulse the graham crackers in the food processor to make rough crumbs, then add the butter and cocoa. Pulse again until it makes damp, clumping crumbs.  Put the crumbs in the bottom of the springform cake tin and press them to make an even base, coming up slightly on the sides.  Put the tin into the freezer while you make the filling.

Melt the chocolate either in a double boiler, and set aside to cool slightly.

Using a standing or hand mixer, beat the cream cheese to soften it, then add the sugar and custard power, beating again to combine. Beat in the whole eggs, yolks, sour cream, and vanilla. 

Finally add the dissolved cocoa and melted chocolate and mix to a smooth batter. 
Make sure the chocolate has cooled, otherwise it will cook the eggs when you add it to the mixture.  Take the springform tin out of the freezer and line the outside of the tin with a layer of cling wrap, and then another layer of foil over that. This will protect it from the water bath.

Sit the springform tin in a large pan and pour in the cheesecake filling. Fill the pan with just boiled water to come about half way up the cake tin and bake in the oven for 50 minutes, or until the cheesecake is set, but still a little wobbly.

Peel away the foil and cling wrap and sit the cheesecake in its tin on a rack to cool. Put in the refrigerator once it is no longer hot, and leave it to set overnight.  Let it come close to room temperature before unspringing the cheesecake to serve.

For the Marshmallow Frosting (AKA Seven Minute Frosting)

Directions:

Place all ingredients, except for Vanilla, in a large double boiler over rapidly boiling water. Beat constantly with a hand mixer for 7 minutes. At this point it should be white and frothy. Remove the icing from heat and add the vanilla. Continue beating until the icing becomes shiny and spreadable.

To serve, you can decide to do just a dollop on individual slices (as pictured), or an entire layer just on the top.  I love this frosting, and while I eating the cheesecake, I honestly kept adding and toasting dollops with every bite.  

To toast, get your butane torch going (you can get these at any Kitchen store, such as here) and move it across the top of the cake, a few inches away, not staying on one spot for longer than 5 seconds.  Basically eyeball it, and toast it to your liking (though I think a golden toast tastes best).

Enjoy!

KITCHY ENDORSEMENTS

Barely Buzzed and Tomme Brulee

Both of these cheeses are edible the way a wine can be quaffable: put it on a platter with a knife and guests will flock to them for their nutty flavor and creative edge.

Barely Buzzed

Barely Buzzed, the blue ribbon winner of the American Cheese Society in 2008, is produced at the Beehive Dairy in Utah, one of the only dairy farms in that state. The rind of this cow’s milk cheese is rubbed with a blend of espresso and lavender, flavors that permeate gracefully to the core of the cheese as it ages. The cow’s milk flavor is rich enough (sharp and nutty, like an aged Comte) to not get overpowered by the coffee and lavender, which give the cheese a deep roasty flavor.

Tomme Brulee


The Tomme Brulee cheese comes from the Basque region of France, at the foot of the Baigura Mountain tucked into the far southwestern corner near the Spanish border. This tomme (meaning “cheese") is made from ewe’s milk in small batches. The ewe’s milk has a floral, chalky flavor (not unlike goat’s milk) that marries perfectly with the flavors the brulee method imparts. At the end of the cheese’s maturing period the rind is singed with a naked flame, imbuing the cheese with nutty, roasty complex flavors, and giving the cheese it’s name: Tomme (cheese) Brulee (burnt). If you enjoy this cheese, I also recommend Midnight Moon by Cypress Grove Chevre, a goat’s milk gouda with a very similar flavor profile.

Both cheeses are available at Andrew's Cheese Shop in Santa Monica. Enjoy!

CREAM SCONES WITH MIXED BERRY JAM

Is there nothing better than waking up on a frosty morning and diving into some fresh baked scones and a cup of tea?  I love them for breakfast because of their not too sweet flavor and chalky mouthfeel, asking for some tart berry jam or a little devonshire cream to top them off.  Using cream rather than buttermilk or regular milk keeps the scones "alive" all day.  The term alive may sound weird, but have you ever eaten a day old scone?  It tastes lifeless.   The fat in the cream preserves the flavor and lightness of the scones for at least 12 hours after baking them...though there's no substitution for having them straight out of the oven.  Enjoy!

CREAM SCONES (Makes about Twelve)

Ingredients:

2 cups all-purpose flour

¼ cup granulated white sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

¼ teaspoon salt

1/3 cup cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces

1 large egg, lightly beaten

1 ½ teaspoon pure vanilla paste

½ cup heavy cream

For the Glaze:
1 large egg, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons heavy cream

Directions:
Preheat oven to 375 F with the rack in the middle of the oven.

In a large bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients. Cut the butter into small pieces and blend into the flour mixture with a pastry blender or two knives. The mixture should look like coarse crumbs, with chunks of butter the size of small peas. Combine the heavy cream, beaten egg and vanilla in a separate bowl. Add this mixture to the flour mixture. Stir just until combined.

Knead dough gently on a lightly floured surface two or three times. The more you touch the dough, the more the butter in it melts, causing it to become dense when baked, so remember to apply a light touch! Roll or pat the dough into a circle that is about 7 inches round. Then, using a 2½ inch round cookie cutter, cut the dough into rounds. Or, if you're like me an for some reason don't have a 2 ½ inch cookie cutter, cut the dough into triangles of your desired size. Place the scones on a cookie sheet covered in parchment paper or silicon sheep, spacing a few inches apart. Brush the tops of the scones with the egg and cream mixture. This helps to brown the tops of the scones during baking.

Bake for about 16 - 18 minutes or until nicely browned. Remove from oven and transfer to a wire rack to cool. Serve with Devonshire cream and your favorite jam.